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BY JENNIFER GELFAND

If you’ve ever hoped

to see authentic Old

World cigar-making

up close, now is the

time. The window for

truly experiencing

the country known

for producing

legendary cigars

may be closing—in

more ways than one.

AS ANYONE WITH MORE

than a passing

interest in cigars knows, the pendulum has been swinging

back and forth for U.S.-Cuban relations in recent years.

The diplomatic relations restored with much fanfare

in 2014 were “canceled” earlier this year by President

Donald J. Trump, who dubbed the previous administra-

tion’s

policy a “completely one-sided deal with Cuba”

that had to go. Fortunately, that doesn’t mean the door

has shut for Americans looking to experience the coun-

try best known for its cigar-making tradition—or that it

ever really will. However, travel to the biggest island in

the Caribbean may become a lot more complicated.

The good news? First, while U.S. policy about trav-

el to Cuba has changed, those changes have yet to take

effect and will likely take many more months, if not lon-

ger, to be put into action. Second, rather than banning

travel to Cuba outright, the new policy tightens already-

existing conditions regarding who can travel and for

what purpose—which means Americans determined to

make their way to Cuba will probably still be able to find

a way to visit legally (See sidebar: “Know Before You

Go,” p. 50) long after they do come to pass.

Steeped in Cigar History

Still, if you’ve yearned to experience the island’s legend-

ary cigar-making culture up close and personal, now is

the time to make your travel plans, say veteran visitors.

“I’ve gone every year for four years now,” says David

Garofalo, founder and owner of Two Guys Cigars,

who says tourism is making an impact on both Havana

and cigar-making in Cuba. “It’s changed dramatically

during that time; every year you see more and more of

an American influence. If you really want to experience

Cuban cigar-making history and culture, the sooner you

can go, the better.”

For decades, Cuba stood still while time marched on.

That may be changing now, but recent travelers still

describe time capsule-style scenery: crumbling baroque